My plans for an outpouring of literary magnificence have been thwarted by the urgencies of real life interrupting available writing time. Instead I’ve been inspired by the Aegean beauty around me to document Köyceğiz in Spring until I batter the existing scraps of output into something readable. To be fair though, Spring here has to be celebrated before the sultry excesses of a scorching Summer take over. For cycling and walking this time of the year is ideal for exploring as the roads and byways are usually quiet, often completely empty.

Apart from a few chilly evenings and the odd welcome bout of rain the days are now reminiscent of a fairytale representation of spring. It’s all crisp bright mornings, midday skin tingling sunshine, crowds of flowers, migrating birds and stubborn road-crossing tortoises in March, April and May. The badly missed Aegean orchestra of tree frogs and crickets are already in song , but the heavy sawing of cicadas is yet to start as the temperature remains pleasantly warm without the heavy heat of summer. The Terrapins are sunning on ditch banks in town whilst frogs and toads give off a noisy gabbling from any swampy area and the river. The orange blossom is on the trees giving off an incredibly intoxicating aroma that the perfumeries of the Cote d’Azur could never quite replicate. At the same time the remaining winter oranges are still hanging from the trees, just the occasional solid thud as one hits the floor or lays out a passing tourist. Collecting windfall oranges from the grove behind us is a far cry from the wormy apples on my old North London allotment, of which the excess used to ferment in the long grass and get the local hedgehogs disgracefully drunk.

I’m no botanist unfortunately, which makes the profusion of orchids, meadow plants, and tree blossom a little frustrating as I’m regularly convinced I’ve discovered something unknown to science. I’ve just acquired a gorgeously illustrated (Turkish/English translated) guide book, by local authors, on rare & endemic Muğla plants and it’s of no surprise to see how many are found only in this area, often on tiny rarely investigated sites. So far I’ve found precisely none but misidentified many. None of which matters, getting out and exploring the countryside is good for the brain and it’s heartening how many locals come to talk when they see a disheveled foreigner (yabancı) rummaging head first in a plot of rash-inducing foliage. If anybody living here or visiting is interested in the book then message me for details.

There really is all sorts out there, the closer you look , the more you find. I’m still messing with the macro setting on my phone , with appalling results and not a few insect bites as I encroach on some minute predators territory. Every verge, grove and tract of unused land is a riot of Chamomile, Cornflowers ,Mallow, edible herbs and tall scented meadow plants constantly attended by the laid back local Honeybees and huge harmless electric-blue Carpenter bees.

Köyceğiz is renowned for its honey which is produced via a constant redeployment of painted boxy hives that can be seen in woodland, along roadsides, field edges and forest borders. Both flower honey (Çiçek balı ) and Pine honey (çam balı) are produced here in huge amounts. The flower honey is subtly flavoured by the location of the hives. So in an area like Muğla the vast groves of Orange, Mandarin, Tangerine and Lemon contribute to fabulous tasting Citrus honey. Pine honey is actually made from the sweet secretion of a Scale insect living on the pine trees here. Yeah- it’s basically bug juice, but delicious bug juice! The bees collect it and take it back to the hive in time honoured bee fashion. You can’t move for honey sellers here but I’d recommend a reputed dealer as dark rumours of cheaply adulterated products circulate. I know a couple of Bee keepers that sell the good stuff and there’s a local chain with shops prominently placed.

Now is the time whilst the weather is bearable to get out and about and see this spectacle of buzzing activity. At the risk of losing one of my small band of readers to a swarm attack or anaphylactic shock, the local bees are a mellow bunch and it’s easy to calmly and safely pass by the hives. Don’t push your luck however, I’ve noticed whilst taking photos the odd interested bee scout soon becomes 2 or 3 and then before you know it there are several insistent buzzers investigating the vulnerable areas of my tender Anglo-Saxon legs, arms and neck. Also from experience don’t cycle with your mouth open, it’s been a trial but I’ve finally mastered nose breathing when free-wheeling past busy hives.

Last March whilst rambling aimlessly through the Sweetgum woods I heard an odd thudding noise. Defiantly, courageously and without thought for personal safety I followed the mighty ground shaking booms crashing in the undergrowth and discovered 3 Tortoises (Torti?). Two of whom were taking short run ups and then smacking headfirst into each other, the third half-interestedly chewing a bit of grass close by. Being worldly wise I realised this was a clumsy joust between amorous males for the attention of a possibly available female, like Bolton town centre on Saturday night though this lady wasn’t eating chips, gravy and a battered sausage.

This was a dramatic introduction to Tortoise season in Türkiye. When fighting and fornication takes over the byways of town and village and determinedly lumbering Tortoises proceed tank like across busy roads. Thankfully there seems to be an unwritten agreement that motorists make their best effort to avoid lumbering Chelonians and there are lots of concerned bleeding-heart-tortoise-hugging liberals like us ready to transport these bloody-minded pies on legs to pastures safe. Anyway- in 2023 myTortoise count is up to 23 seen including 5 road rescues. No dead ones- which is amazing considering they’re not exactly evolutions greatest success in the face of a world now dominated by automobiles.

Another spectacular herald of Spring in the area is the arrival of birds from their Southerly winter quarters. White Storks are repairing nests and hunting frogs in damp fields, Swallows and all their relatives are swooping through towns and noisily nest building under eaves. Snake Eagles and Harriers are hunting the forests and marshes and the superb Hoopoe can be seen looping it’s way across gardens and fields. My bird photography is appalling, a whole file of blurred or distant blobs of indistinct appearance. So you’ll just have to look it up on the internet. E-bird – Muğla , will give you a good idea of what’s to be seen on a daily basis and it’s quite a revelation.

https://ebird.org/region/TR-48

The lake, marshes , forest and mountains make this area of Muğla a birdwatchers (birder to the initiated) playground. There’s always something of interest to be seen whether it’s the local rare White throated Kingfishers all year round, or migrants such as gorgeous Bee-eaters, shy Black Storks and iconic singing Nightingales.

We have been honoured by, amongst many other birds, the presence of a singing pair of Golden Orioles. So far they’ve been quite elusive, only visibly briefly as they fly between the Medlar and Mulberry trees. The song is a gorgeous fluting sound, with a tropical air to it. A luxuriously exotic start to the dawn chorus blending with the multitude of avian garden residents.

A surprise visitor to the garden has been a family of Wild Boars plundering the bounty of fallen Mulberries. I used an infrared camera trap as these are incredibly shy and and only turn up in the dead of night. And their turn of speed when disturbed is incredible. Now I know they’re there I’m waking around 3-4 am to the squeaking of the youngsters and grunting of the formidably muscled adults.

April is the generally accepted time that Türkiye’s seasonal venues begin to open up. Köyceğiz, like Las Vegas, never really stops as it’s got a reasonably sized local populace , not particularly dependent on tourism. Even the lake front restaurant’s hold on throughout winter, with visitors from the big cities coming to enjoy a salep (hot sweet milky drink made from powdered orchid roots), samovar of tea , glass of raki or a couple of beers by the water. Quality live music is performed nightly throughout winter by excellent musicians and singers in at least two restaurants (Ayaklıgol & Avantgart) with others putting on weekend shows. However the Kordon (promenade) brightens now as staff put away winter coats and the lakeside tables are opened up to the sun and spectacular views. There’s a bustle of activity as everywhere is spruced up and made ready for the summer.

A walk along the front to Iskele restaurant brings you to the tiny marina and boatyard. Here many of the local tour boats are maintained and revarnished and it’s worth a pleasurable saunter this way. Always nice to watch others work when you’re not. Or is that just me? Anyway- another 5 minutes from here is the beginning of the Sweetgum forest , an extremely rare habitat, found almost nowhere but this part of Turkey. In April and May you have a good chance of hearing Nightingale’s sing from deep in scrub. A gorgeous melodious liquid bubbling song from an otherwise comparatively dowdy bird.

Although there’s been a limited winter service there will now be regular boats coming across from Dalyan on a Monday for the Köyceğiz market (pazar). I’ve written on this blog before about the market and would be most happy if you’d take a look at the page for details. It’s a much recommended activity if you’ve prepared yourself beforehand so you can make the most of your time here before your boat departs. Alternatively take a one way trip, stay over and enjoy the relaxed ambience of this friendly town and get the bus back a day or two later. There are regular buses from Fethiye and Marmaris also and Ortaca acts as a changeover hub for other areas.

This is only a light view of the area at this time of year, indeed Türkiye as a whole is incredibly beautiful in Spring. Flights appear to be continuing throughout winter now and there’s always somewhere to stay in this inventive and flexible nation. If you’re heading this way and want some friendly advice I’m happy to answer questions or point out reputable businesses I’ve used myself.

For bike hire, Nitro in Köyceğiz town centre rent out at a good price. There are several accommodation options but Flora hotel is run by a local, Alp, who is knowledgeable about wildlife in the area and occasionally runs nature themed tours.

Again, after the indescribable tragedy of the earthquake in the East, Türkiye and it’s people will bounce back. Hopefully those from overseas who love this place will continue to come and those that have never been will make the trip to this amazing country. All the seasons have their own special flavour but Spring really must be experienced for that true Aegean and Mediterranean timeless beauty where you lose yourself for hours in pure paradise.