Turkish cuisine is regarded as one of the worlds greats. Centuries of in innovation and diverse influences have blended to produce a vast range of staples and delicacies even Turks are often unfamiliar with. An appreciation of good food is as intrinsic to Turkish culture as that of the French and Italians. With this in mind you’ll never go short of recommendations from locals of where to eat good food in Türkiye. Köyceğiz is no exception to this. The town and wider area as a whole has more than enough restaurants and cafes serving up excellent dishes, many specific to the region and most using locally sourced ingredients.

A guide to all the notable eateries here would probably try the patience of the casual visitor . Most visitors come over on the Dalyan based boats on market day or by coach for one of the local boat trips. This generally means limited time, where the obvious venues are on or close to the lake front. The majority of these sell alcohol which isn’t a given in Köyceğiz away from the lake. A few also serve some international style dishes. The lake front tends to be more expensive than further back into town but Köyceğiz is generally cheaper than the nearby resort towns and there are reasonably priced meals on all menus here. For some background and information on the market and how to get here read my link. https://onthemooch.blog/2022/11/11/koycegiz-market-pazari-better-than-a-day-at-the-races/

I’ve dined or had drinks at most of the venues along the lake regularly. The 2 or 3 I’ve barely used I’ll leave out until I feel inclined to frequent them more. The restaurants all serve a good variety of food including vegetarian meals. Turkish meze has some excellent vegetarian dishes which if ordered together make a tasty meal in themselves. There’s no obligation to buy a main course here. It’s acceptable to order light meze or just a drink if that’s all you want unless it’s a busy gig or weekend night when it’s courteous to spend enough to reasonably cover your service.

I’ve had some fantastic nights out watching live music in Köyceğiz, and the set is almost always in Turkish. Certain singers & musicians such as the excellent Evren Mevlanaoğlu, Hazal Yeşilli, Tufan Kayahan and Grup Sağanak occasionally cover English language songs but in the main you’ll hear a mixture of Turkish favourites and the artistes own work. If you’re looking for a bloke from Pontefract covering Neil Diamonds back catalogue then sadly you won’t find him here. The energy and stage presence at these evenings is usually reflected by the involvement of the audience joining in with the more raucous songs, and often with dancing spilling out onto the street.

So here we go – I’ll start in democratic fashion from the beach side of the lake where fewer non-Turkish visitors go and move right across to the marina at the other end of the promenade or Kordon as it’s called. A couple of places are set back on the main square also.

Belediyesi cafe – Belediyesi in Turkish means Council. I could write a whole article about the Belediyesi cafes of the South coast of Turkey as they are notably good value, attractively designed and are often in prime scenic locations. This is no exception with a view across the lake and amongst the lowest prices in town for drinks & food. Worth the walk and there’s lots of wildlife at that end to watch as you muse over your çay/kahve/bira! (Tea/coffee/beer – you may as well start learning now).

Davut – Davuts place is a real gem in Köyceğiz. Excellent home cooking using quality ingredients at a good price. It’s owned by Davut (as you’d expect), who keeps his restaurant supplied with the best in local produce. Amongst a variety of dishes this place is renowned locally for its Kokoreç, a delicious offal kebab type sandwich or wrap. I’m a dedicated fan of Davuts version which I order spicy. The salads, breakfasts and meze are notable and this is a great place to spend an afternoon with Demli çay , which is the Turkish tea in a flame heated pot which you pour to your required strength.

Panorama Otel – Not an obvious choice but the food is well made, decent portions and a reasonable price. The pool is deep enough for swimming for exercise, as well as a cooling hippo like dunk and the hotel accepts non residents for a fair daily rate. If fortunate enough not to coincide with raucous family groups (weekends generally) then this poolside bar provides a serene way of spending a few hours . The manager, Mehmet & his great team are helpful & knowledgeable and are successfully making an effort to keep customers happy in a relaxed well run bar/cafe. Definitely recommended as a place to stay, eat, drink, and swim!

Republic- Republic is one of the very few bars in Köyceğiz and is more drinks orientated. It tends to get livelier later than the restaurants but has built up a good reputation amongst its regulars and is worth a visit.

Ayaklıgol- one of the busiest and most atmospheric locally. For mellow early morning coffee, Serpme Kahvaltı (breakfast -Turkish style), leisurely lunch or a quality night out. Fantastic friendly team (Alpcan, Gizem, Yaşar and Mehmet plus the owner, Gürbüz), great extensive menu of tasty well prepared dishes, and superb live music occasionally including well known artistes. This has been the location for many pleasant days and memorable evenings.

Avantgart – another popular choice. Live music in the backyard often culminating in a raucous dance & singalong Turkish style, excellent food in a bustling location close to the town centre. If staying into the evening keep an eye out for Evren Mevlanaoğlu who’s powerful melodic singing is worth settling in here for the evening. Also great breakfasts and lunch.

Bydönerci– between Ayakligol & Avantgart down the colourful little alleyway is this hidden gem where you can dine on some of the best doner you’ve tasted. The friendly and talented owner is justly proud of the ingredients used here , Bydönerci is an open secret in Köyceğiz where the food & service are superbly memorable. Try the Sade (plain) döner, Iskender döner (with a big serving of yoghurt, pide bread as a base) and içli köfte which is a Turkish speciality I’ve long been a fan of.

Bisoss- set just back on the walk up towards the high street. Simple, tasty and affordable meals including excellent wraps. Good if you’re wanting to fuel up and watch the local bustle. The top floor has a panoramic view of lake and town.

Pegas cafe- also set back from the lake, Pegas is perfect for a shady break from the sun where you can sit back and watch the goings on of the town square. Pegas sells excellent teas, coffees & desserts and also runs the superb ice cream vendors attached. A special mention to Ayşe who runs the place effortlessly, this is one of those cafes you can spend ages idling at with a book, chatting with pals or watching the happenings of the square.

Ixir- popular bar, good range of drinks and also serves snacks. Well run bar with thoughtfully chosen live bands & singers most nights. Open air location plus a tasteful mini cafe-bar by the waters edge. Settling in here on a warm summers evening to enjoy a good band is one of Koycegiz’s highlights. Look out for Grup Sağanak for a particularly enjoyable and original band.

Tuana- is known for its superb food both Turkish and also non-Turkish dishes such as English breakfast & roast. No live music. which suits those who want to chat without distraction. It’s a little quieter at this end of the lake though this is a popular restaurant for food & drinks and the evening promenade of locals is fascinating to watch from here. Tuana are particularly good with seafood and meat and we’ve had some outstanding fish dishes here recently, all complemented by tasty plentiful salads and mezes. Definitely a place for the foodies.

Önce Yemek-A new addition for 2025, this is a traditional locanta style restaurant. It’s a minutes walk from the front on the main square opposite Bisoss. Good prices for excellent regional Turkish food. Everything I’ve had in here so far has been really tasty and well prepared. Buying a couple of plates to share, with a side dish of pilau and salad works well. Basically, find your table, then go into the restaurant and choose your food and drink. It’ll be brought out shortly.

Mackbear – a popular chain style cafe much beloved by the twenty/thirty somethings though it’s welcoming to anyone that enjoys a good cafe. Excellent selection of coffees which can be drank on the premises, in the shade of the promenade trees or takeaway. Keep an eye out for my good friend, Bitli, a friendly local street dog who hangs around out front.

Iskele – by the small marina & Sweetgum forest this is an pleasant location for a drink. Usually amongst the cheapest options on the Kordon it’s a notable location for watching the sun go down. A particular favourite for a game of backgammon in the shade or for sitting out on the marina edge with a view right along the Kordon. For the romantic or nature minded, Nightingales can be heard in the forest from here on an evening.

Street food- a (moveable) fixture of Koycegiz Kordon are the little carts of Turkish delicacies pushed around by friendly helpful locals . Some are here all year round (see below) and others are seasonal. The restaurant’s & bars here have no issue with you buying from promenade vendors and eating at their tables if you’re already seated – so don’t feel shy, wave them over and order at will. Prices are low and the quality high.

Amcaoğlu & Dayıoğlu – the idea of eating shellfish abroad on a hot day is a little intimidating to many non-Turks but these two sell excellent quality Midye Dolma (stuffed mussels- containing a tasty rice mixture). The locals go mad for these delicacies which are made and served fresh throughout the day. We’ve eaten tons of them happily throughout the year and converted our guests into midye dolma addicts too. Just wave the friendly vendors over , tell them how many you want and they’ll be prepared in front of you & served with a slice of lemon & a couple of clean wipes.

Bardak mısır –this is hot buttered sweetcorn, delicious to eat whilst walking the Kordon or drinking at a cafe. Typical Turkish snacking food. The lovely, invariably smiling lady serenely pushing her cart, Suraya, also serves at the market on Mondays. Another Turkish speciality that must be tried and which will tide you over between meals.

Tulumba tatlısı –these are the churros type fried dough pastries sold around town by Ramazan, another local you’ll bump into several times in a day. His tulumba are great, sugar dripping fried treats to be savoured after a good meal or a sweet energy boost to keep you going after a market visit.

Generally the food served along the lakefront is top notch, the service friendly and the prices favourably good compared to resort towns. The lake view is magnificent and changes seasonally, during the day and depending on weather. Köyceğiz itself is a town immersed in the Turkish countryside surrounded by natural beauty. Most will come here in summer but spring and autumn are incredibly scenic too without the crowds. https://onthemooch.blog/2023/03/26/spring-has-sprung-in-koycegiz/

Whether you’re visiting for the day, a traveller taking in the area over a few days or you’ve moved here, make sure you fully sample the local restaurants and towns friendly atmosphere. I’ll be adding articles on the eateries of the back streets and edge of town,where superb cuisine can be found and savoured with local people. Köyceğiz hasn’t fallen prey to the insidious wave of chain shops over running the place… yet. Only by supporting local businesses can they remain viable and resist this bland tide of same-old that’s ruined so many other charismatic towns.

For an example of local ingenuity and originality then try a tea or coffee at the book cafe , Lutra Lutra. The garden at the back is a hidden oasis, perfect for those looking for serenity, an escape from the paparazzi or if you’re on the run from Interpol.

If looking for accommodation or a Köyceğiz to Iztuzu boat trip then I can recommend having a look at the attached link. http://www.tangopansiyon.com/m/en/index.html