In the midst of a spell of unseasonal dramatic June weather, all crashing thunder, torrential rain and hair-raising lightning, came a very pleasant last-minute day out on a gloriously sunny day. A boat trip,and lunch, on the Köycegiz moored Tango which took us across the lake to Iztuzu beach and the Sultaniye mud baths.

For a very reasonable price the boat set sail from Mona Lisa restaurant on the Kordon (promenade) around 10 am, we just had to be there 15 minutes early. The ever cheerful George (Clooney doppelgänger- so alike it’s uncanny) greeted us and our fellow travellers and showed us to our seats and a glass of tangy Turkish tea soon followed., All the seats are shaded though there is space for sun worshippers to sit atop or at the front of the boat if that’s your thing. Being of distant Celtic lineage, shade is my friend, and the boat has plenty of it.

Once everyone was aboard we set sail from the mooring, which gave us marvellous views of Köyceğiz with surrounding hills olive and citrus groves and forest. It really is a stunning area and the whole day is visually impressive whether town, lake, sea, or George, there’s always something to take your breath away.

The trip started well whilst awaiting departure as fellow passengers started chatting and a spirit of bonhomie was formed. Throughout the voyage assorted other passengers introduced themselves including a lovely family from Adana. If you’re staying in one of the popular resort towns then a trip on Tango is a great way of mixing informally with Turkish holidaymakers enjoying their own time. I’m a notoriously unsociable grouch so the fact my flint-like heart warmed enough to enjoy the company around us tells you something of the day.

Some gentle (if occasionally loud) entertainment was a feature of the trip and as ever when music plays there were occasions when Turkish passengers got up and danced in that enticing sinuous fashion so difficult to emulate. My own Turkish dancing is a wonder to behold, I’ve often struck entire weddings silent with my shimmy and finger clicking, but I gave it a rest today. The crowd was a mixture of all ages and the boat atmosphere reflected that, maintaining an easy going vibe with occasions of louder Turkish song favourites played to a gentle singalong. For the shrinking violets amongst you, of which I have my moments, it’s equally possible to do your own quiet thing on the boat and watch the scenery go by.

Meanwhile the boat travelled smoothly across this unique and magnificent waterscape with wildlife all around and the deserted flower-hued shores in the distance. Although Iztuzu beach is the main focus of the trip the lake is incomparable for beauty at times and you really should take in this protected natural wonder as you sail it’s waters.

Speaking of wildlife, along with the usual Terrapins, Egrets, and Purple Herons I was lucky to see an Eleonoras Falcon hunting from a deserted island across the lake. These are a magnificent looking bird of prey that will feed on dragonflies and small birds. The lake often attracts such beauties and I’ve also seen Ospreys, White tailed Eagles, Flamingoes and much more in the general area. If you’re holidaying in this region an interest in wildlife is a must to develop as it’s rich in the sort of creatures you sit watching on the Discovery channel on cold dark eveings. Keep your eyes peeled and camera at the ready .

Passing the lovely and mysterious Donkey Island (so called because it’s populated by Mysterious Donkeys), brings you to the mouth of the Dalyan river. From here the friendly colourful town of Dalyan passes on the one side and towering cliffs on the other. Dalyan is a gorgeous laid back place and the winding river takes you along the restaurant lined front and past bougainvillea framed gardens.

Just as we exited the main part of town the incredible Dalyan rock tombs loomed into view high above us. These can’t be missed and rank in magnificence with any other ancient antiquities we’ve seen in many years of travel. There’s a convenient widening in the river here where the boats tend to pause so you can get good photos and marvel at the craftsmanship of the tombs.

It’s from the beginning of the Dalyan river you should be looking for turtles. Both the sea-going Loggerheads and the endangered Nile Soft shelled turtles can be seen from here. The Nile turtles have a notably pointed snout and can be seen drifting off some of the riverside restaurants whilst the lighter coloured Loggerheads tend to appear briefly for a snort of air before submerging again If you’re paying attention you’ll almost definitely see several turtles throughout the trip. Put your phone down and concentrate!

After the sights of the town were left behind it was back to natural beauty (though George had been left behind), and then we passed through the fish gates. These have been here in one form or other for 2000 years and give the area its name. Sea fish such as Bass (Levrek ), Mullet (Cefal) and Sea bream (Çupra) pass up the river in spring and then the gates are closed. Sustainable fishing by the local cooperative keeps the area supplied with delicious seafood, and then the gates are opened in winter to allow the fish to exit.

Steadily we wound through the delta reed beds, birds such as Purple Heron’s, a Marsh Harrier and a rainbow flock of Bee-eaters passing over us. From here the hillsides of Çandır and Kaunos are visible, two places that must be visited for their tranquility and history. By now everyone had settled into chilled out conversation, a little dancing and lazy sight-seeing in the welcome breeze.

As the delta opened up we came to Iztuzu beach. Iztuzu is internationally famous for its nesting Loggerhead Turtles ably championed by the dogged hard work of June Haimoff (Kaptan June) and her versatile Turkish friend, Abidin Kurt. Their story is fascinating and well worth reading about. Without them the turtles may well have long abandoned the area and a huge soulless hotel complex would have dominated the bay. As it is they are extremely successful breeding here and there are huge gentle adults popping up all across the lagoon and out at sea.

Now the area is managed for both Turtles and tourists, meaning it’s as clean a beach as you’ll ever find with relatively unobtrusive cafes and sun beds. These are managed by the local council and there are simple but effective rules to follow which are signposted as you leave your boat. Marker posts are placed over new nests in a rough zone the turtles are known to use. The nest sites are strictly out of bounds other than to pass by. The vast majority of visitors respect the place and rules and you’ll leave here a better human being if you do to. There are few places in the world you can come so close to such charismatic creatures and we should respect that.

Iztuzu beach has plenty to occupy the visitor. For sun worshippers there are beds just in front of the cheap and well run cafe, the sandy beach slopes incredibly gently into warm waters that though wavy are rarely rough, and a few minutes walk along the shore leaves the crowd quickly behind. The bay is surrounded by the delta reedbeds, forested hillsides and steep rocky cliffs and there’s a small island across the water. If you cross back to the lagoon it’s very easy to see Turtles here either as they pop up to breathe or feed on crab thrown by other boaters. We saw several breaking the surface and one noodling around the wooden pier looking for unhealthy snacks. The turtles can find their own food easily and have no need of the stuff thrown in to attract them. There are toilets, showers and changing rooms here and plenty of shade.

After a very enjoyable couple of hours swimming, walking, turtle spotting and a cold drink we went back to the boat for a superb lunch. We had Sea Bream chargrilled on the boat and other meal options are available and will be discussed when you buy your ticket. After the lazy exertions of strolling and floating we sat around enjoying the conversation whilst others went back for another hours swimming.

After Iztuzu we returned back along the river on a different route, and came into Dalyan where we dropped people off. The boat doesn’t feel crowded but even so the few of us left had that private charter feel as we all stretched out to watch the view, chatted or day-dreamed with post-sea swim languor.

Slowly Tango cruised back onto the lake, shadowing the shore to the thermal mud baths of Sultaniye. There are a few mud baths in the area but there are archeological traces of a probable spa dating back to Roman times here. A fault line at this idyllic site allows hot, sulphurous, mineral laden water to seep out of the ground which was channelled into marble baths. The smell is surprisingly strong , like a teenage boys bedroom though bearable, but you can always sit by the waters edge or swim in a lake for a breather. A pleasant little cafe bar overlooks the lake and as it’s run by the council is good value for money. Entry to the baths is 20 tl paid to an attendant as you exit your boat.

We had a good soak in the volcanic waters, and felt that skin tightening tingle which, whatever the science says, feels beneficial and invigorating. From the thermal bath you are expected to move to the mud bath, and coat yourself in the mineral rich grainy gloop. Then allow the sun to dry you into a troglodyte human statue before a thorough rinse off under powerful showers. I opted for a lake swim instead combining a delicious chill with the odd sensation of warm water flowing around your feet from the vent in depths of the earth.

After a drink by the lake we boarded the boat again for the return home. The whole eye-catching vista of Köycegiz grew closer and we began to swap numbers and say our goodbyes on this friendliest of trips. The marvellous George had kindly looked after our bikes during the day and it’s was with a pleasurable sloth that we slowly trundled off from a very enjoyable day, and one which you can combine with a visit to the often overlooked Köyceğiz.

To book a place on Tango boat go to the link below or see George or whoever else is around outside the Mona Lisa restaurant on the Köyceğiz promenade. Check the itinerary so there’s no confusion on the day and pick your preferred lunch. The price is extremely reasonable per person (including lunch) but the fluctuating economy in Turkey means I’d prefer not to put it in print as it could be outdated by the time you read this.

The owner of Tango, Şahin, also has accommodation in the area should you need it. Details on the link. https://koycegizapart.com/iletisim/

Şahin speaks excellent English and can be contacted on 0 542 312 05 68

For ideas of where to eat and drink in Köyceğiz I’ve given an overview here. https://onthemooch.blog/2023/05/15/eating-drinking-in-koycegiz-the-lake-front-guide/

And if you’re wondering about the title of this article, well it’s not easy writing a memorable header with the word Tango (Tango & Splash? Tui to Tango, Tripping the light Fan-Tango? 🤷🏻‍♂️). So a play on a Bob Dylan song title will have to suffice and that’s that!