This week has been an eventful and unusually stressful one for me. During the week I was bitten spitefully on the foot by a Manc-hating spider whilst I was scything grass in the garden. Lots of anxious internet research revealed I’m likely to survive, I won’t lose my foot and sadly am unlikely to turn into a onesie clad superhero but it was touch and go. I was ready to have the whole limb taken off as preventative medicine but instead I’ve settled for a slight limp and a brave face.

Then, in a complicated scenario involving a snake and a unexpected gust of wind I ended up locking myself out of the flat for an hour and half in nothing but a pair of disreputable undies. The stairs overlook the road and a neighbours house and occasionally random people wander through the garden and give a friendly wave. There were a lot of overly curious ants in that stairwell and that’s all I need to say.

So it was an immense pleasure when very good friends proposed a mystery trip up to the Yayla area of Muğla where they spent their childhood. This area is high above sea level and it was a surprise to see lush golden fields start to blend into deep sunken lanes with tunnels of tree boughs cooling the early evening air. There was more than a passing resemblance to the English West Country , made further appealing by the intermittent appearance of ornate forbidding gates undoubtedly leading to secret gardens and other delights of the fertile imagination.

We stopped in a dusty, goat aroma’d car park and wandered unwittingly across the road to what at first sight appeared to be an English country club. I’ve never knowingly seen an English country club so I could be wrong to compare , oddly nobody ever put me up for membership of a country club in the Uk hence my poor show at Polo, Croquet and spouse swapping.

Immediately – Keyfoturağı as it’s named, was more than welcoming and several things hit me though it took a few minutes over a chilled beer to place them. The grounds are surrounded by imposing shade-providing trees with massive gnarled trunks, almost oak like, the grass is soft and green which I haven’t seen since winter, and the temperature was perfect, a refreshing late-summer coolness with the gentlest of breezes. Anyone who’s spent the Turkish summer at a lower elevation will hopefully appreciate the scene I am setting.

After an hour or so it suddenly occurred to us we’d not been bothered by a single mosquito (nor a married one or even one who had a on and off complicated relationship). As much as I love Köyceğiz and it’s environs , the act of regularly swatting mosquitoes combines with the tropical humidity and stifling heat in a triangle of discomfort. Then the scratching starts, often myself and my good friend Bitli, a street dog of low character and lower hygiene standards, rival each other in frenzied scratching sessions as we dine by the lake.

Anyway- back to Keyfoturağı. You get the picture- a spacious cool garden, tables miles apart, friendly attentive staff and absolute comfort around the table. The last couple of months energy sapping heat was forgotten and we relaxed into being the scintillating conversationalists of old.

It was suggested we share a variety of meze so we could sample the food on offer and that’s what we did.

A mixture of favourites and unknowns were on show in the chilled cabinet so we went for a smoky aubergine plate, baked mushrooms in cheese, yoğurtlama, a spicy tomato,green bean and chilli dish, rock samphire (kaya koruğu ) pickled in lemon and an addictive sweet & salty plate of sun dried tomatoes with cashews and sesame seeds (keyif mezesi) in a tangy sauce. All were delicious and complimented each other by their differences. The samphire was slightly tart which went well with the sweetness of the tomatoes. Combined with a couple of baskets of excellent bread it was a simple, filling, but a top quality meal. We finished with beef Kavurma, again delicious but we could easily have picked another vegetable meze or two and been satisfied,

I often see requests for recommended vegetarian restaurants or people asking if vegetarians are catered for in Turkey. Turkey has excellent vegetarian food but I know that the range can become limited after a few days if you haven’t the benefit of a local guide. In Keyfoturağı you have the holy duo of food so good that it’s irrelevant to all but the most stubborn carnivore and that it’s got a well thought out selection of vegetarian friendly dishes. I’ll have to kidnap a vegetarian for their opinion of course but I’m happy to stake my (admittedly worthless) reputation that the variety is worthy of their palate. Incidentally there were lots of enticing looking meat items displayed ready for cooking- to be tried on another visit though.

As with all good meze meals this was a leisurely affair which suited the al fresco surroundings. We’d arrived around seven-thirty which is reasonable if you haven’t a reservation but it does get busy later and at weekend. By nine it was filling up nicely and evening turned to night. The generously spaced tables allow a freedom of speech not met very often in restaurants, and it disappointed me I couldn’t remember any particularly filthy jokes. As well as enjoying the conversation we were serenaded by three Tawny owls running through their repertoire of Owl noises. Unless it was the waiters hiding in the bushes having a laugh at my gormless expense with their hoots and tuwit-tuwoo’s.

The bill was reasonable, especially considering the excellence of the food, the service impeccable and the atmosphere priceless. There’s a boutique hotel close by should you want to avoid driving back to whichever godforsaken inner city hellhole you reside in ( Dalyan, Köyceğiz, Akyaka I shudder to think) or it’s a short drive to Muğla centre. From here we had a run across to Muğla, a brief look at the Greek style old town and a few glasses of çay plus dondurma in Serpil Park but that’s for another day.

Traitor that I am to my adopted home of Köyceğiz, there are some marvellous places to eat, drink and ponder life’s great mysteries by the stunning lake. https://onthemooch.blog/2023/05/15/eating-drinking-in-koycegiz-the-lake-front-guide/