There are few luxuries in this world of bling as rewarding (and affordable) as a private boat trip. The sensation of being the architect of your own day, floating in a jade green lake, sailing the turquoise Aegean, jumping into a crystal clear bay and drying off in sun and sea breeze is beyond price. If you can get a party of like-minded souls together, pick up a days supplies, and spend a little time comparing prices, it can be surprisingly cheap. I’ve written this as a general guide of what is possible though I’ve included our preferred captains details in Dalyan.

I began this post on a cold and blustery January day in Köyceğiz as a wistful escape from window- rattling gales and the bloody oil heater gaily burning up lira. Last winter, aside from intermittent warm sunny days , the biting chill in South West Turkey lasted until the beginning of April and it was a source of mild pique to have escaped the grey skies of London only to be still muffled up against the bitter cold and rain.

I had spent a miserable February weekend in Dalyan, frozen to the bone at night under a feeble hotel air-con heater and squinting through wind-blasted grit-sore eyes at the building site main streets during the day. It was a struggle to find a welcoming sanctuary amongst the shuttered bars and restaurants. Out of season and during bad winter weather, Dalyan was deserted and no place for the brief visitor and the street dogs snapped and grumbled at each other in bad temper.

It wasn’t until April with visiting friends to entertain that a whole different side to Dalyan became apparent. In bright sunshine the delicate aroma of orange blossom perfuming the air, storks hunting the fields and streams, cafes and shops open for early season visitors and wide blue sky framing the magnificent rock tombs this was a whole different place. A multitude of colourful boats were lined up waiting for passengers, and I’ve rarely been able to resist a boat trip.

Dalyan is a cheerful little resort town located on a reed-lined river overlooked by the eye-catching Dalyan rock tombs. At one end of the briny river is fairytale Köyceğiz lake and at the other is Iztuzu beach, nesting place of endangered Loggerhead Turtles. Iztuzu and Dalyan were made famous by the conservation activities of June Haimoff, known as Kaptan June, who sadly passed away aged 99 in 2022. Kaptan June was invaluably assisted by Abidin Kurt, a local legend still resident in the area whose tales of those days are worthy of a good film and book. Abidin still represents the Sea turtle foundation based in the town. https://dalyanturtles.com/

Their legacy of hard work and tough negotiation led to the preservation of the Turtle breeding and nesting grounds in the large delta . However inevitably tourism still found a way albeit a gentler version than that found in many other environmentally sensitive areas. Over the years many low rise hotels and pansions have been built in the town with corresponding numbers of bars, shops and restaurants. A lot of the tourist activities centre around the innumerable boats taking trips across the lake, to the nearby beaches or along the coast visiting remote coves and tiny islands.

The main sights of Iztuzu, Kaunos and Sultaniye mud baths however are still relatively serene and under the control of the local council with appropriate rules on behaviour and construction in place. Destructive activities and threats to the region still exist and any support from visitors is most welcome. A local group of volunteers known as the Riverbums make a valuable contribution to the preservation of the areas beauty, with regular working parties clearing up the rubbish that collects along the riverbanks and reedbeds.

Our next visit to Dalyan was fortuitous as after dithering gormlessly along the promenade looking for a boat trip we realised the polite friendly captain we’d first encountered had given us a too-good-to-be -true price. This was Ali, whose fee and friendliness were genuine and with whom we’ve had the pleasure of sailing with multiple times now. The trips are invariably different in some way depending on route but always serene, relaxing, and give that sense of freedom and luxury a private boat trip imbues. I’d post a photo of Kaptan Ali but with a man that good looking, charismatic and easy going I’m concerned I could possibly break the internet and also cause an influx of enamoured admirers that would destroy the infrastructure of this small town.

We’ve now sailed with Ali from April, through the scorching summer months, up until the beginning of November. I’ve amalgamated our experiences here. I can’t really give a favoured month to take a private boat trip, each season has its own attractions. Spring is beautiful and energy levels are high in the reasonable temperatures, summer means the waters are warm and inviting and give an essential respite from the Anatolian heat, autumn combines the warmth of summer with the peace of spring and a notable drop in tourist numbers.

Ali’s boat is the simple, comfortable and trustworthy Sude. It seats 6 people comfortably in the shade, and is low and compact enough for Ali to easily manoeuvre into shallower or narrow areas. This helps when he drifts silently alongside the lake reedbeds, into tight little mooring places or over the stunning shallow Çandır bay opposite Iztuzu. We usually spend the trip wildlife watching, swimming, snorkelling, lazing on deck, and take in a walk around the rocky paths of Kaunos. If you go with friends or family it’s one of those mellow occasions where the surroundings inspire good conversation and content silences in equal part. The day is long but broken up perfectly at your own timing.

Our trips usually start around 10.30 am stocking up on breakfast pastries, ice, drinks and assorted bits and pieces. Ali is moored opposite the excellent Yeners place restaurant, worthy of a fine post-boating meal plus a good coffee to start the trip with. After greetings to Ali and often his brother Barış who moors next to him, we load up and set off downriver. Barış is also a firm recommendation as a captain for the day and his boat is suitable for larger groups.

This part of the river winds gently through the chilled out little floral town. At one point on your right is the Dalko building and grounds, which belongs to the local fishing cooperative that influences Dalyan to a large degree. The delta and lake hold huge numbers of Sea bass Sea bream, Mullet plus eels, catfish, and Blue Crab. Dalko acts as a guardian over the fishing rights and protection of these waters. In turn the fishermen keep an eye on illegal activities or risks to the water and surrounding land and hillsides.

If you’re lucky you’ll catch sight of the pointy snouted Nile Softshell Turtle along the river, a huge gentle beast which is resident here, though rare and protected. The famous Loggerheads can be seen in town too but more of them later. Wildlife is a big feature of a Dalyan boat trip, the private boats at least giving you the option of sailing without music or entertainment and stopping when something interesting appears. Spur Winged Plovers, Kingfishers, Purple Herons, Marsh Harriers and much more are often visible from the boat. Otters are seen regularly by fishermen as are Wild boar.

The first stop of note is on a wide bend opposite the rock tombs. The history of these tombs, and the general ancient civilisations of Lycia and Caria tie in with many of the Greek mythological stories. Most boats slow for a few minutes allowing photographs of these stunning 2500 year old mausoleums carved into the rock face by the Lycians. Abseiling to a funeral seems to have been all the rage at that time.

From the towering cliffs we putter on for a time through reed beds, a good time to eat a late breakfast and get into the relaxed rhythm of boat life. After an enjoyable breezy saunter through the marshes we sail out to the big lagoon on the river side of Iztuzu beach. On route we pass or are passed by other bigger boats , and eventually come to the fish gates (or dalyan) which keep the spawning sea bass, Mullet and Sea bream in the lake and river until late autumn. I always greet the bloke that presses the button to lift or lower the net gate with my incomprehensible Turkish in the hope he’ll invite me to take over his job. Feel free to condescendingly wave at the non- private boat trippers in patronising elegance, as they sit glumly in rows listening to the banging tunes of Tarkan for the fourth time that morning. On another day that’s you that is!

Usually we bypass Iztuzu beach until later in the afternoon . Instead we sail through the narrow fast flowing straits here, heading for the small island in the bay. This is Delik Ada, a rocky outcrop with a couple of calm sheltered areas suitable for snorkelling and your first swim of the day. Ali’s boat is compact enough to moor close to the rocks, others tend to be a little further out where the water can be choppy. The island has that Aegean stillness and peace, where floating in the sea you can hear the cicadas and birds, smell the sage and enjoy the heat of the rocks whilst remaining cool in the shaded water.

The next port of call is the gorgeous Çandır bay. A shallow, sandy bay of rippling clear water and soft sand bordered by pine fringed hillside. Keep an eye out for Loggerhead Turtles beneath the surface here. Not many boats are shallow enough in draught to moor here so it’s usually quiet and in spring or autumn you may have the place to yourself. From deck to seabed is a short drop so no diving, though it is deep enough for swimming if you venture back out a little. The beach here isn’t accessible by car, though you may see a few horse riders. It’s a stunning example of the innumerable coves and bays only accessible by boat or hardy walker along the Muğla coastline.

From here it’s a short sail back into the lagoon behind Iztuzu beach. Regular public and private Iztuzu boat trips mean it’s generally busy though I wouldn’t say oppressively so. I’m no fan of big crowds and the cafes and facilities here account adequately for the numbers. These are run by the council (Belediye) meaning low prices, decent food and well maintained facilities. The majority of visitors stick close to the sun beds but another 50 – 100 yards walk will bring you to almost empty beach and sea. Again the waters are shallow and clean and the sand soft.

Iztuzu is where the Loggerhead Turtles nest- 500 nests were recorded in 2023 alone which is a globally significant number. The nests are in a roped zone you can pass through only and the nest markers are evident as they’re dotted along the length of the beach. The turtles themselves are easy to see as they come up for air on the lagoon side. Any with a brightly coloured patch on the shell are actually fitted with a GPS tracker and this acts as a visual marker from above the water surface. Many boat captains attract the turtles with pieces of crab (or worse) which is unethical because it puts the turtles in serious danger as they then tend to hang around the boats and risk death or maiming from moving propellers. Try to gently verbally discourage this if you get the chance, and don’t be put off by any flannel. The turtle hospital at the other end of the beach cares for several of these rare creatures, with missing limbs or damaged shells from boat damage. If staying in Dalyan take a trip on the dolmuş to the hospital and also enjoy the beach and cafe there.

From Iztuzu you have a choice of next stop. We’ve occasionally moored deeper into the lagoon further along the delta side of the beach. The water is generally still and warm and it’s a good dozing place or you can hop onto shore and you’ll find yourself much further down the sea side of the beach where you’ll likely have it to yourself. It’s a calm quiet place with views across the reedbeds of the various birds that live here and the sound of the sea just over the rise. It’s as good a place as any to picnic in the boats shade and then doze or rouse yourself for a cooling dip.

Usually we decide on a stop at Candır, or a walk around the fascinating ancient site of Kaunos. I’d love to keep Çandır secret but there are other boats regularly heading there for the calm water and goat-haunted hillsides bedecked in bougainvillea, sage and hibiscus. Kaunos has its own charm and needs some time to get around.

One regular stop for boats at Çandır is an area where hot thermal water bubbles up from the seabed creating an eerie sensation of warm legs and a colder torso as you swim. I can’t be the only person who likens it to the sensation of having peed yourself…can I? Mooring in the open bay and enjoying a dreamy Aegean afternoon here is one option or take a walk to the sleepy village from the tiny harbour. It’s one of my favourite places in Turkey so I’m grinding my teeth in self-loathing describing it to future visitors.

Note also as you enter the picturesque bay, the carved recesses in the harbour cliff face. These are niche tombs, where ancient Greeks and Romans would place the ashes of relatives. I’m applying to be put there myself once I’ve shuffled off my mortal coil, hopefully one of the higher niches where the cats can’t get me.

The alternative to Çandır is Kaunos. Kaunos is a magical place of crumbling ruins, a well preserved amphitheatre with ancient olive trees growing between the tiered seats, tortoises and birdsong and magnificent views. The only drawback is in hot weather it can be hard going as the paths are rocky and there’s lots of climbing of high steps. Spring and autumn or an early summer start are the best options. The area is still being excavated so more surprises are expected but if you’re fit enough the present site is fascinating. Wandering around in spring is particularly rewarding as you’ll definitely come across determined tortoises, hear Nightingales from the scrub, catch a glimpse of Persian squirrels and Rock Nuthatches and be surrounded by wild flowers. It’s also got well maintained toilets which under the right conditions are far more essential than the beauties of nature. There’s a small fee to enter the site which goes towards its preservation.

Usually we enter Kaunos at the fish farm entrance then walk a long leisurely loop up and round the site and then down a small road where Ali awaits us at the little car ferry that links Kaunos to Dalyan. As you leave Kaunos you can see other tombs across the pomegranite and orange groves and experience the serenity of rural Turkey on the very edge of this busy little town.

On our latest trip we were passing one of the intriguing wooden jetty’s half hidden in the river reedbeds when a chat with Ali revealed this to be the back way to a local restaurant. Fancying an afternoon coffee and beer we moored up and walked through a pomegranite grove until we appeared in a beautifully landscaped garden and terraced area which turned out to be Yalıçapkını (Kingfisher) restaurant . I almost felt I’d trespassed onto some reclusive millionaire artists retreat, and was just preparing to steal the cushions and run when the lovely staff and owners welcomed us in.

Yalıçapkını has been around for several years but this winter received a thorough refurbishment from the family running it. It’s position between river and fruit groves make for a luxurious sanctuary the likes of myself only catch sight of in dentists copies of Conde naste. Prices were reasonable and I’ve since heard very good things about the food. I can’t recommend the place enough, whether for a romantic evening, solo afternoon laze with a book or full blown family gathering.

The final leg of the trip meanders back along the river through town, in summer this includes a strong welcome breeze blowing from the mountains, until we come out on the lake in the lee of Donkey Island. Ali usually cuts the engines for us here and we drift through the reedbeds serenaded by bird song all around us. Then a last swim in the cool green lake water and soak up the stunning vista of lake, island, forested hillside and distant white haze of Köyceğiz. To one side is the Sultaniye mud baths which can be included in the day if you forego one of the mentioned stops.

After an hour or so of chat and swimming we sail back into town, waving like a grizzled, gin soaked version of the Railway children at other boats and restaurant diners. Dalyan is usually bustling nicely by then, and there’s enough good restaurants if hanging around in the evening here. Yeners place and Sahils being favourites of ours.

As previously mentioned, you don’t have to sell the kids and furniture to afford a private boat trip. Some operators may overdo it but most know the sense of quoting a good price that covers their overheads plus a reasonable markup. Just be patient and realistic and maybe leave the big camera and gold necklace at home before negotiating. The Turkish economy has been badly hit in the last couple of years meaning rising costs which obviously are passed onto the customer. That’s life and the weak lira offsets most of this increase for overseas visitors.

Boat trips are addictive, fitting one into your holiday is a must for your memoirs and photos or if resident here just as a break from the familiar and remind yourself of why you chose to move here. Lie back in the salty Aegean, gaze skywards as the cicadas zither on the scented hillside and cackle to yourself that you’re not daydreaming in some bloody tedious department meeting hoping some bugger doesn’t ask any difficult questions.

Useful numbers and links related to this post.

Kaptan Ali , Sude 2001 – WhatsApp message on +90 (541) 890 21 99

Kaptan Barış – his boat is called Hepa. A piece of history as it was previously owned by Abidin Kurt. Whatsapp message +905459282862

Both Ali and Barış can also put you into contact with captains with bigger boats such as Rami who we’ve used for a big family party and had an excellent day.

Dalyan Boat tours are also well regarded and can be recommended. https://dalyanboattours.com/
WhatsApp… +905437630552

Yalıçapkını Restaurant– check out their Airbnb link also, stunning accommodation by the waters edge https://instagram.com/yalicapkinirest?igshid=OGIzYTJhMTRmYQ==

If interested in a blog post or want advice contact me via the blog link.

Dalyan Riverbums and images of the area can be found on the Dalyanli Facebook page https://www.facebook.com/DalyanRespectfully?mibextid=LQQJ4d